Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Antigua

From Iain: Today we spent a relaxing day wandering around the markets in Antigua.  We bought some interesting fruit, including lychees, some small oval green/red/yellow fruits with a thin skin, large pit, and sweet, slightly chalky yellow flesh, and some large brown fruits that resemble a potato from the outside but have a texture like a ripe pear on the inside and a very sweet taste.  We also bought some freshly made tortillas (both regular yellow corn ones and black corn ones), refried beans, and salsa.  For a dessert we bought a selection of hand-made candies and cookies, including some great fudge.
No-one felt too inclined to visit any specific tourist sites but we're planning to return to Antigua in a month's time when we can be a bit more adventurous.  Tomorrow we're catching an early bus to Lake Atitlan, although not a "chicken bus" (old, repainted U.S. school bus) like the ones below (at least, not as far as we know).  So it's early to bed now.
Chicken Buses and Volcano, Antigua
Chicken Buses and Volcano, Antigua

Two lines

From Iain: Our unpleasant experience at U.S. immigration a few days ago is still bothering me, so perhaps if I write about it some more I can purge it from my system...
We - all the passengers coming from Peru - were happy to land, surprised to feel so fatigued having been sitting for so long.  We'd all diligently filled out our landing and customs forms on the plane and we walked expectantly to the immigration hall.  We came to signs dividing us into two groups, U.S. citizens and residents one way, visitors another.  Since the girls and Tanya are U.S. citizens but I am not, we had to follow the visitors' sign.  Beyond the signs, the citizens and visitors from our flight entered the respective mazes winding their way to the border agents in their booths.  The signs above the booths indicated that half were allocated to citizens and half to residents.  Another flight's passengers were already in the lines and there looked to be about twice as many passengers in the citizens line as the visitors line.  All seemed well.
As the lines began to move, we in the visitors line began to take in the finer details of our situation.  We noticed that the citizens line was moving much faster than our own.  We could also see that while every citizen's booth contained a border agent, many of the visitor's booths were empty.  In fact, we could only see two agents processing visitors.  As we glanced around at each other to seek confirmation in each others' faces, one of the visitor agents left his booth and went into an adjoining office.  We kept looking for him to come back out again.
Soon all the previous flight's citizens and residents had been processed and many of the citizens and residents from our flight had also gone through.  The visitor's line had barely moved and the agent who had left his booth had not returned.  We began muttering quietly to ourselves, wondering why this was happening and how much longer we might be here.  Some of us had connecting flights and it seemed more and more unlikely that we would make these connections.  A man in a uniform at the front of the lines seemed to be directing people to the agents in the booths.  We assumed he was a border agent.  When some of us tried to ask him for help he ignored us and we realized he was only helping the citizen's line.  We then noticed a similarly uniformed woman in front of our line but she would not help those of us with connections either.  She soon appeared to tire of being asked for help and wandered away somewhere.
Another agent entered one of the visitors' booths so that we now had two agents processing us again.  Still our line crept forward while the citizens' line raced through.  As we looked more closely at those lucky visitors at the booths who were being processed, we noticed that after questioning some did not walk through to the area marked "customs" but were instead lead away through a separate door.  We became anxious about their fates, but not as anxious as we were that we would also be lead through that door when our time came.
Despite having been replenished with U.S. citizens and residents from other flights, the citizens' line had now dwindled to a handle of people and the uniformed man turned his attention to our line.  Perhaps now he would help us, we thought.  However, he did not permit us to now go to the agents in the citizens' booths.  He entertained himself instead by shouting at anyone who put their bags on the ground while they waited.  We were too frightened by what might happen to us if we did not comply to refuse his unreasonable demand.
Soon the citizens' line was nearly empty and and our spirits raised at the thought that the agents in the citizens' booths might soon start to process us.  All of a sudden the two visitors' agents left their booths and disappeared into another room.  As we looked to the uniformed man for an explanation he taunted us by saying they'd finished their shifts and we would have to wait here all night now.  We refused to believe his taunts but then we looked over to the citizens' line, which had now filled with new arrivals from another flight.  As they began to go to the agents in their booths, a man in our line could restrain himself no longer and called out, "That is not fair.  We have been waiting for a long time and they have just arrived.  We do not treat visitors like this in my country."  As we all murmured our agreement, a woman working for our airline suddenly began directing those of us at the front of our line to go to agents in the citizens' booths, alternating with the newly arrived passengers.  The agents in the booths did not object.  The uniformed man disappeared.  The woman from our airline gestured for us to move as quickly as possible.  She told us another flight was coming and we would have to move back to stand in front of the empty visitors' booths once those passengers reached the immigration hall.
Before this happened we reached an agent in his booth.  He did not welcome us to the U.S.  He did not apologize for our wait.  He processed Tanya and the girls, as U.S. citizens, in a minute or so.  It took a while longer to fingerprint me and take my photo.  Once processed we asked to speak to a supervisor.  One came and we described our experience to him.  He did not appear to hear us, however.  He told us he allocates an equal number of his agents to the citizen and visitor lines.  He did not wish to discuss with us that today the numbers were unequal.  He was unmoved that all the U.S. citizens and residents from our flight had been processed within 20 minutes while nearly two hours later there were still visitors from our flight who had not been processed.  He told us he had no responsibility for the uniformed man at the front of the lines.  He aggressively told us that budget cuts meant that he did not have as many agents as he would like.  He did not apologize for our wait.  He did not welcome us to the U.S.

Monday, October 29, 2012

Onwards to Guatemala

From Iain: We've spent the last few days making our way from one continent to another to begin the Guatemala portion of our trip.  We left our Pisac home of three months on a bus driven by a crazed driver up to Cusco at an unfathomable speed.  We then spent a pleasant day wandering around a few museums in Cusco, none particularly worth writing home about, however.  The highlight of the day was an evening performance of Andean dance and music that we attended.
The next day we got a flight to Lima - just over an hour crossing the Andes.  Once there we were picked up by a taxi arranged by our hospedaje for two nights, the B&B Tradiciones in Miraflores.  With everyone feeling a little fatigued by the activities of the last week we decided to simply visit a single museum during our time in Lima.  We settled on the Museo de la Nacion, which turned out to be a good choice as it was interesting and informative without being overwhelming.  There was a photo exhibit on Machu Picchu, a good display covering the history of Peru, a couple of more in-depth displays on an archaeological site in Peru and the extensive road system constructed by the Inca, and, finally, a photo exhibit on the internal conflict of the 1980s and 1990s (the girls did not view this last exhibit).  I don't have too many photos from our time in Lima, but here's one from inside the Museo de la Nacion:
Museo de la Nacion, Lima
Museo de la Nacion, Lima
We left Lima yesterday on a flight to Fort Lauderdale, Florida.  The less said about the day the better, since it ended up being one of those grueling travel days when just about everything seems to go wrong: a late taxi, check-in problems, boarding delays while everyone was searched, a humiliating hour-and-a-half wait in the visitors line at U.S. immigration while 10 agents processed U.S. citizens and residents each in well under a minute, while 2 agents processed visitors, each taking upwards of 5 minutes each while we were fingerprinted and had our photos taken.  We finally got to our hotel and made the best of it by having a late night swim in the pool and two large decadent pizzas delivered to our room.
Today we had a much better travel day (why is it so much more pleasant these days to leave the U.S. by plane than to arrive in the U.S. by plane?) and a much more positive welcome when we arrived at Guatemala City.  We whizzed though immigration and customs in a jiffy and were then driven at high speed to our hotel in Antigua, Posada Dona Luisa, where we are all now, very tired indeed ...

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Saqsaywaman, Q'enqo, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay

From Iain: Today we went on a day trip to the four Incan ruins closest to Cusco: Saqsaywaman, Q'enqo, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay.  We caught a bus to the site closest to Pisac, Tambomachay, and then walked towards Cusco from one site to the next.  With exploring the ruins, picnicking along the way, and taking a little bit of an unnecessary detour, this took us most of the day. After all the Incan ruins we've seen during our time in Peru, some tourist fatigue must be setting in because we were all a little jaded with today's sites.  That's not to say that parts of Saqsaywaman weren't pretty impressive.
Saqsaywaman
Saqsaywaman

Wiñay Taki Performance

From Iain: Last night we were invited by Fielding and Roman (one of the founding families of Kusi Kawsay) to a performance by Wiñay Taki, a traditional Andean musical group of families and friends who are all connected in some way or other with the school. The performance took place at the Pisac Inn and we were part of a small, select audience of supporters of the school.  Roman introduced and explained each of the pieces of music and dance, which followed the Andean calendar through the seasons and various local festivals and celebrations.  The instruments included all manner of flutes as well as some drums and stringed instruments.  Each new piece involved changes of costume and interchanging roles of playing instruments, dancing, or singing.  It was all thoroughly entertaining and enjoyable.
Wiñay Taki
Wiñay Taki
After six or seven pieces spanning the Andean year, the audience members were invited/cajoled to get up and dance with various members of the group.  In the spirit of the evening we were duly persuaded and even managed to enjoy this part too.  To round off the evening, Fielding and Roman acknowledged everyone's support of the school, including Bethany and Sierra's participation over the last three months, Tanya's guidance on painting through the grades and hands-on assistance with the kindergarten, and my technical help with the recent redesign of the school's website.  You can see the results of my efforts at http://kusikawsay.org/ (while you're there, please consider making an online donation to the school since many of their start-up funding sources have dried up now and they desperately need your support for their growing operating costs).

Monday, October 22, 2012

Moray and Salineras

From Iain: Today we went on a day trip to the agricultural Incan terraces at Moray and the salt pans at Salineras. We've seen a lot of the Urubamba bus terminal lately as we had to take another bus here today. Then we hopped on the Cusco bus and jumped off at the junction for the small town of Maras. There we negotiated for a taxi to take us to Moray and Salineras (and to wait for us to take a look around at both places before returning us to the junction to catch a bus back to Urubamba).
At Moray there are three massive, deep bowls inset with perfect concentric terraces. Apparently the Inca used the terraces as a kind of agricultural experiment station to determine the best crops and varieties for growing at different elevations.
Agricultural Incan Terraces at Moray
Agricultural Incan Terraces at Moray
At Salineras there are thousands of salt pans built into the steep slopes dropping down to the valley floor. The pans are fed from a spring with a very high salt content and worked by a large extended family, who rake up the salt crystals into conical piles where it dries before being bagged. The overall visual impression of the site is very strange, all the more so for being so unexpected in this environment.
Salt Pans at Salineras
Salt Pans at Salineras

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Chinchero

From Iain: Today we went on a day trip to Chinchero, which is a small village on the road between Urubamba and Cusco.  The landscape here looks very different to that of the Sacred Valley - very high (Chinchero sits at 3,762m or 12,340 ft) with grassland, trees, bushes, and agricultural fields of red, brown, yellow, and green and endless vistas to still higher snow-covered mountains.
Chinchero
Chinchero
The main places of interest in the town are a large Sunday market (with much the same items as the Pisac market) and a historical area with some Incan terraces and ruins atop which sits an ugly, decaying colonial church.  When we arrived many of the town's inhabitants were attending a Catholic service inside the church, so we couldn't go inside. Given the history of the Inca and the Catholic Church it was a little discomfiting to see all the local people dressed in their traditional Andean clothing coming out of the church at the end of the service.

Ollantaytambo

From Iain: Yesterday I went on a day trip with Sierra to visit the Incan ruins at Ollantaytambo.  Bethany wasn't feeling up to snuff so Tanya stayed with her at the hostal.
Incan Stonework at Ollantaytambo
Incan Stonework at Ollantaytambo
From Sierra: When we got there [after a bus to Urubamba and then a collectivo to Ollantaytambo] we went up some steps to the ruins. The ruins here have more stone carvings than the other ones. After we went to The Coffee Tree restaurant where we had banana cream pie for dessert.

Saturday, October 20, 2012

Last Day of School

From Iain: Yesterday was the girl's last day at Kusi Kawsay.  More details to follow but here are some pictures in the meantime.
Sierra and Profesora Rosaura
Sierra and Profesora Rosaura
From Sierra: I brought cake to share with my class, and cards. Everyone also made cards for me and four people brought presents for me like: a doll from Noria, a necklace from Ruth, a watch from Miska, and a llama and a sheep from Washington. After lunch we took a taxi up to the Pisac ruins. There are probably more ruins here than there are at Machu Picchu. After we wanted to walk down another way but when we got to the end of the trail it ended in someone's yard and it had a locked gate. A man saw us and told us we had to go back up where we had come from but instead when he went away we climbed over his fence. Then we went to a restaurant where I had pumpkin ravioli in browned butter and walnut sauce.


Saturday, October 13, 2012

Kusi Kawsay Open House and Food Festival

From Iain: Yesterday Kusi Kawsay held an open house and food festival. There was a very impressive display of school work from all the classes inside one of the classrooms, while outside each class set up a table laden with various local Andean dishes that parents had helped to prepare. The teachers and children explained the ingredients, preparation, and nutrition properties of each dish, after which we all got to tuck in. Pretty much everything was vegetarian as far as we could tell and quinoa and kiwicha was much in evidence. Bethany and Sierra liked the torte de quinoa the best. There was an interesting display on the nutritional content of coca too.
Sierra's Class Performing at the Food Festival
Sierra's Class Performing at the Food Festival
Many of the children dressed in traditional clothing (including Sierra who wore clothing kindly donated by the owners of our hostal), and some classes gave musical performances. There was also a rendition of the Kusi Kawsay school song performed by the whole school, which I captured on video:

In the evening we, along with the other long-term residents of the hostal, were treated to a wonderful buffet dinner by the hostal owners and their extended family. They also plied us with Pisco Sour, made with pisco (grape brandy), lime juice, and egg whites. Not wishing to miss out, Bethany and Sierra got to try what we thought was a non-alcoholic variation. Since Bethany was more bright-eyed and goofy than usual on the walk home, we're thinking their drinks were no different to ours.

Friday, October 5, 2012

How High?

From Iain: Before embarking on this trip we'd been a little concerned about the elevation of some of the places we were planning to go.  We've fared pretty well on that score, with none of us suffering particularly from altitude sickness (other than getting a bit puffed out walking up the path to the school).  Curious to see how the elevations of places we've been in Peru compare to other places around the world, I put together the following (I probably have too much time on my hands just now). The different shades of blue represent non-high altitudes (pale blue), high altitudes (light blue), very high altitudes (medium blue), and extreme altitudes (dark blue).
Elevations of Various Places on our Trip and Around the World
Elevations of Various Places on our Trip and Around the World